In Peru, there's a road that connects Paramonga, a charming coastal town with a desert climate and moderate temperatures, to Conococha, a high-altitude Andean village located over 4,000 metres above sea level where it's cold year-round. This road is about 120 kilometres long, and for a cyclist the interesting thing is that it has a constant gradient throughout. Uphill: when it comes to cycling, climbing is a given. However, it may also snow, as you can enjoy an incredible variety of landscapes along the way. Of three types. Beginning with the dry deserts of the coast, with endless stretches of sand and rocks; moving on towards the green river valleys, where the vegetation begins to make an appearance; ending with the majestic and impressive mountains of the Andes, where we cycle in the dry, high-altitude often snow-covered scenery.
The climb is continuous, relentless - there are no downhill moments or even flat stretches to catch your breath: every metre you earn is the result of a struggle against fatigue. We can ask ourselves a question: is this feat possible? The answer is not obvious, as we shall explain.
The beginning is deceiving
The first half of the trail is a plateau, with slopes reaching at most 2%. Relaxing, but knowing that you will be climbing the Andes is not a reassuring thought, because it means that the worst, i.e. the most challenging climbs, will come during in the second part of the route. This is something that can be expected, as we pass from the plain at sea level, where the air is rich in oxygen and the temperatures are mild, to the icy, light-air Andean peaks.
The landscape is initially immersed in the intense green of the sugar cane crops, and in the summer months, which are preferable to tackle the climb, the climate is quite warm. As the kilometres pass, the landscape becomes verdant, then rocky. Hairpin bends start to appear, the temperatures drop and the slope gradient creeps up. They remain at around 5%, with rare and short stretches at 8%. These are not frightening numbers, but the point is that the higher you go, the thinner the air becomes. Too much so.
Better stretch it over two days
The road is 120 kilometres long, and you may start off thinking you can travel it in one day. However, due to the high altitude and unpredictable weather conditions – moving from the sweltering coastal heat (the best time for the climb is summer) to the often cold and rainy heights – it is advisable to split the journey into two stages. One idea is to cover the first, relatively easy 80 kilometres and plan a rest stop before tackling the final stretch.
The stop is not so much to acclimatise, since the human body takes about two weeks to "get used to" high altitude (by producing more red blood cells), but to recover energy, given that you will have reached an altitude of almost 3,000 metres and your legs will start to feel it.
Another difficulty, if you are accustomed to cycling on more tourist-heavy routes, is the lack of availability of refreshment points. You can't expect any large facilities along the Paramonga to Conococha, the accommodation is definitely adventure-style and if you are planning to stop over, you should choose the first place you find: 5-star accommodation is not just around the corner, and there is a chance that you will not find anywhere at all to stay if you keep trying to find just the right place.
Only 3.5%, but it's not about the maths
When you calculate the route from Paramonga to Conococha, it doesn't appear all that bad. The calculation of the average slope gives us a reassuring 3.5%. The feat therefore seems feasible, but there is one detail that makes it challenging. Conococha is located at 4,050 metres above sea level and we wouldn't be wrong in saying that cycling at that altitude is definitely tough. We cyclists know all too well the struggle of a mountain climb, and this one is no exception. The final ascent is really tough.
We know that at an altitude of 2,000 metres, you start to feel more fatigue: at this altitude, the lower density of the air reduces the amount of oxygen that enters our lungs by about 20%. The effect is not dramatic, but when you climb further, the difficulties increase. At 3,000 metres, oxygen levels drop by 30%, breathing becomes more laboured, and your heart rate can reach very high levels even at moderate speeds. Muscle fatigue is intense, and many cyclists begin to feel the first signs of hypoxia: headache, nausea, dizziness and difficulty concentrating.
At 4,000 metres, the conditions obviously worsen. The air is so thin at this altitude, with 40% less oxygen, that even the slightest exertion can be incredibly draining. Breathing is heavy, the body struggles to maintain sufficient energy levels. Your heart rate is constantly elevated, and tolerance to exertion is drastically reduced.
Altitude sickness cannot be predicted
The impact of high altitude can differ greatly between individuals. There is no way to predict who may suffer from altitude sickness because it is linked to individual physiology, that is, genetic factors. Age, gender, or even training or previous experiences at high altitudes do not count.
A headache is usually the first sign of altitude sickness, and it can be accompanied by other unpleasant symptoms like nausea, vomiting, fatigue, and dizziness. In these cases, the situation is critical: although you are not at risk, it is advisable to take action. Even if you're tempted to keep going for the glory, the smart thing to do is stop and see if your symptoms improve. If they don't, it's best to turn back to avoid more serious problems.
The thrill of the venture
Reaching Conococha at an altitude of 4,100 metres is therefore a remarkable undertaking of strength and determination. It's not just a physical and mental test. It demands rigorous physical training and strong determination, but as we've learned, a bit of luck, like avoiding altitude sickness, can also make a big difference. This is why getting to Conococha (even in two days) is one of the hardest and most rewarding experiences for any cyclist: the satisfaction of succeeding in the longest climb in the world.
