It is not mainstream, Slovenia. More of a niche location, really. And that is certainly not through snobbism, but because it is intimate, with selective accommodation. It is no longer a destination just for travellers from neighbouring countries, primarily Italians and Austrians, but you meet the Chinese, Koreans, Turks, and above all Americans, a lot of them, all curious to discover the country of origin of their former first lady, whom everyone here simply refers to by her forename, Melania.
Autumn gifts this land with shades of incredible colours. One of the greenest countries in Europe, it is tinged with red and gold on its hills cloaked with woodlands. On the Slovenian Collio, to the west, you can sense the closeness of the sea (and even see it, in certain places) and at the same time enjoy the crisp mountain air of the Julian Alps.
The fascination of Ljubljana
Any tour of Slovenia has to start from Ljubljana, where you need at least three days to be able to appreciate all its historical attractions, its restaurants and its panoramic views along the riverside. Ljubljana is the most populous city in the country as well as one of the greenest and most liveable capitals of Europe. In the city centre, vehicle traffic is restricted so that pedestrians and cyclists can enjoy themselves in peace along the banks of the Ljubljanica, the river with its translucent water which runs through the heart of the city.
Until the cold season arrives, the cafés install “al fresco” terraces along the river, and every evening it seems as if you are in the midst of a party. Every neighbourhood retains its historical footprint: medieval, baroque or liberty, even though the entire city carries the “signature” of the works of the brilliant architect and town planner Jože Plečnik to whom, from the 1920s until the beginning of the Second World War, was entrusted the task of revising the style of the city. He did this extremely well. Enjoyable places to stay are not hard to find – on the contrary, try: Strelec, Tabar, Restavracija Atelje, Gostilna na Gradu.
Turquoise waters, clear water
You only need 40 minutes on the motorway to reach the famous lake Bled: it is sensible to stay here at least for one night to enjoy some of the nearby walks and to take a trip in a pletna (gondola-type boat) to the island. When you see it in reality, it is as beautiful as in a photo. With its lake with its crystal-clear water, the picturesque church on the little island and the medieval castle, perched on a rocky outcrop against the background of some of the highest peaks of the Julian Alps and of the Karavankas, Bled is the most famous tourist site of the whole country.
The principal source of attraction is constituted by the lake itself with its turquoise-coloured waters, measuring 2 km long and 1.4 km wide. To view it is a truly memorable spectacle, from whatever position you choose, and you can enjoy a lovely 6 km walk around its perimeter. Another lake worth the journey can be found 26 km south-west of Bled: the lake of Bohinj is less tourist-oriented and does not have the same style and elegant atmosphere of Bled, but is less crowded and from many perspectives more authentic. It is ideal for relaxation, for taking a dip in the clear turquoise waters of the lake and for going for quiet walks or cycle rides along the local pathways.
The Postojna caves
Travelling north, in little over half an hour, you can get to Kranjska Gora, the Slovenian skiing capital, and an ideal base for excursions. It is the northern-most end of the high-altitude road which goes through the spectacular Vršič Pass (open from May until October) and which winds its way through 50 km of twists and bends as far as Bovec, the rafting capital. Just spend a night there and continue along roads 102 and 103 as far as the extraordinary karstic caves of Postojna. They are amongst the largest in the world and constitute one of the most renowned natural attractions of Slovenia, given the beauty of their stalagmites and stalactites. The cave complex is made up of a series of caverns, corridors and tunnels representing a total distance of 24 km. Having been formed over two million years ago, the caves were carved out by the river Pivka, which enters a subterranean tunnel very close to the entrance. During the guided tour, which lasts an hour and a half, you can see 5 km of caves, of which around 3.2 km on board an electric train.
Towards the sea
After your visit to the caves, it always makes sense to take a detour as far as Predjama to admire the original castle, which was practically carved out of the surrounding rocks. From here it only takes a short while – approximately an hour's drive – to reach the Adriatic at Piran and Portorož . Situated at the head of a narrow peninsula, Piran is the most enchanting town on the Slovenian coast. The Old Town – one of the best-preserved of the Adriatic coast – is a magical casket of masterpieces of Gothic-Venetian architecture, perfect for a visit during the months which are free of tourist invasions. During these quieter periods, in fact, it is impossible not to fall in love with its winding alleyways, flanked by period buildings and their welcoming fish restaurants which do not cost a fortune. Make a note of these: Ribic Baja, Restavracija Pavel 2 Lovrečič Protić Liliana, Pirat Piran.
In ten minutes you get to Portorož, which as well as its great beaches proposes spas and wellness centres where you can dedicate yourself to mud and thermal baths. In Slovenian style, that is to say under the banner of relaxation.
